On A Grand Tour

So far, we have experienced incredible architecture in Switzerland, mostly in the grandiose and ornate buildings of La Belle Époque or the picturesque rural homes of the Swiss chalet style, with small pockets of preserved medieval architecture in the vieilles villes, or old towns, of cities. It was an unexpected treat then to find the city of Fribourg and dive into a whole weekend of medieval fun! Located on the verdant Swiss Plateau along the winding banks of the Sarine River, it is less dramatic than the Alps but no less lovely. With not much more information than “medieval” and “hidden gem” leading us here on a spontaneous weekend trip (really, what more information do you need?!), we were blown away by the city’s history, architecture, art history, charm, beauty, friendliness… I could go on and on. Fribourg was founded in 1157 and expanded over the following centuries, making it home to some of the most beautifully preserved examples of architecture, from humble medieval homes to high Gothic cathedrals.

The long days of summer in Switzerland mean that even a Friday evening arrival allows for hours of exploring. This is a city meant for wandering. Around every corner is a new cobblestoned alley, Gothic fountain, viewpoint over the cliffs and bridges on the Sarine, and gorgeous historic building.

My favorite moments when I travel are the completely unplanned ones, the ones that steer my day in an authentic and unexpected way. This happened the second we left our hotel Saturday morning and came upon the weekly farmer’s market happening right outside of the 16th-century town hall. We strolled down the beautiful historic street alongside locals carrying baskets of their purchases and admired the fromageries, boulangeries, boucheries, and fresh produce stalls. When the man working the fromagerie stall called out “Bonjour!” to his next customer amidst the bustle of the market, it was all we could do to keep ourselves from breaking into the entire song and dance from the opening scene of Beauty and the Beast! We successfully ordered all kinds of breakfast goodies in French (cause for fist bumps all around!) and took our fresh pastries and coffee up the cliffs to the Chapelle Lorette for some of the best views overlooking the city.

While there, we stumbled upon a medieval tower that has stood guard over the city since 1367 and made the additional discovery that we could climb up to the top of the tower. All by ourselves in this amazing historic landmark overlooking the gorgeous city and countryside, the absolute coolness of the moment was not lost on us.

A heavy and sustained downpour took us inside the Fribourg Museum of Art and History, which was another unexpected surprise. Housed in a Renaissance mansion, the museum catalogs the history of the inhabitants of the town and region from 9000 B.C., with an emphasis on the art from the city’s 14th- and 15th-century prime. It was a splendid way to spend a rainy afternoon, with no crowds, no lines, just us and history.

No trip to this region is complete without fondue, as this is where this magical dish was invented. We dined on the regional specialty moitié-moitié, with half Gruyère and half Vacherin cheeses. Yummy! It’s hard to believe that I actually usually don’t like cheese, but it’s hard not to like it here!

The next day dawned bright and sunny and we headed out for a signature Kurt and Alyssa day. You see, the day before, while we were marveling at our own personal medieval guard tower, we discovered that you can see and climb all of the towers and fortifications that once encircled the entire city. All of them. So our comfy shoes went on and we hit the road! We scrambled, we climbed, we walked, we walked, and we walked until we made a full circle around the entire city and explored every tower, guard post, and defensive wall. We had views of the city, the countryside, and the river from all angles and walked in the footsteps of centuries of Fribourgoises who guarded their city.

Exhausted and happy, we collapsed into our Aperol spritzes while gazing at the river, the 13th-century bridge that spans it, the old town, and the Gothic cathedral tower that rises above it all.

What an incredible weekend full of surprises of the best kind. While admittedly not as expansive, Fribourg had all of the historic magic of Siena with a tiny fraction of the crowds. We loved every square inch of it and know you will too when we bring you here!