We just arrived back in Switzerland after a month of being back in the States to our apartment still decorated for Christmas, which had me reminiscing about our Swiss holiday fun. While some holiday festivities were still canceled this year (sadly, we still haven’t been able to experience the 1602 dress, parades, and cauldron-crushing of the L’Escalade festival), this year we were so excited to prance around some of Switzerland’s Christmas markets. I just love how festive all of the cities become during the holiday season; it keeps you nice and warm despite the frigid temperatures.
On many of the lists of the best Christmas markets in Switzerland and Europe is Basel. We decided to take a trip up to the northern border of Switzerland for a weekend of holiday cheer. We knew that we would love the markets, but we weren’t quite expecting how much we were going to love the city of Basel as well! Located in German-speaking Switzerland, Basel has been inhabited since the 5th century BC by a variety of groups and has maintained its medieval town beautifully. It lies on the borders of both France and Germany on the Rhine River, which created quite a unique opportunity. In one day—in one hour—we walked through three countries. I didn’t know that this accomplishment was on my bucket list, but I added it quickly so that I could cross it off!
After a nice long stroll through the Swiss, German, and French surroundings, we headed into the town center for food and markets. We happened upon the weekend farmers’ market in the Marktplatz in the shadow of the beautiful town hall that was built in the early 16th century to celebrate Basel’s joining of the Swiss Confederation. Painted a vivid red and covered in colorful frescoes, the town hall was a gorgeous backdrop for cappuccinos and bratwurst (we were in German Switzerland, after all) in the farmers’ market.
Now time for some Christmas fun! We headed up the hill to the Münsterplatz, or the square in front of Basler Münster, the cathedral originally built in 1019, to the first of Basel’s Christmas markets. We were met with so much charm, fun, and cheer, with row upon row of cute holiday stalls filled with food, handicrafts, traditional Swiss treats, and warm beverages. Not to mention a giant Christmas pyramid in the middle of it all.
We snacked on fondue-stuffed bread (the best invention ever) and kartoffelpuffer (mostly because of how much I love saying the word) and sipped on gluhwein (mulled wine), feuerzangenbowle (a genius invention whereby a sugar cube is soaked in rum, set on fire, and then allowed to melt and drip into gluhwein), and lumumba (basically hot chocolate spiked with rum). And don’t get me started on the sustainability of the event, with adorable ceramic mugs taking the place of thousands of disposable ones. What a feast for my festive heart!
Our second day started with donuts and coffee with a view as we chuckled over how small-batch vegan donuts in seasonal flavors and craft coffee can make us so homesick for San Diego.
We moved from the hipster to the traditional in Basel’s second market, located in yet another picturesque square. Spätzle, traditional Swiss Christmas cookies, of course more gluhwein, and a few too many Christmas gifts later, we were stuffed full of food and holiday cheer.
The cobblestone alleyways and passages of Basel were the most fun to wander through. We marveled at the dates displayed on many homes indicating that the buildings were built in the 1300s and 1400s. The popular combination of red trim and green shutters on many homes throughout Basel added to the abundance of Christmas wonderfulness.
Geneva has its own beautiful Marché de Noël on the lake. While the artisan shops were fun to walk around, the real magic of Geneva’s market was the food. In addition to the Swiss winter staples of raclette and fondue, there was food, beverage, and sweet representation from all over the world. In one evening, we had Argentinian choripán (sandwich with Argentinian sausage), Portuguese bifana (another delicious sandwich situation) and chorizo-stuffed bread, and Greek loukoumades (basically donuts, yum!). And, of course, the most important Christmas market staple—now called vin chaud, since we are back in French-speaking Switzerland—is critical for keeping hands and insides warm in the chilly weather and should be consumed on a continual basis for maximum benefit.
On A Grand Tour 
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